Recipes, Guides, Lifestyles by GRATSI

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A pocket guide

Where to eat and drink in Bologna

By Silvia Nanetti

October 01, 2024

Two wooden chairs and a small table are set outside a rustic building with a wooden door and window. Sunlight casts shadows on the ochre wall, where a faint white heart is drawn. A wooden bench sits beside the entrance. Hand-drawn drink menu cards hang in two columns under signs labeled Bevande and Cocktails. Each card features a cartoon illustration and the name of a beverage or cocktail. The cards are attached to hooks on a wall.

Bologna is a captivating medieval city, renowned for its delightful pasta dishes and home to Europe’s oldest university, founded in 1088. It offers the perfect mix of culinary delights and cultural wonders, ensuring an unforgettable stay. Among the city's many treasures are its medieval towers, endless porticoes, and grand statues, each with a unique story to tell. However, it’s Bologna’s status as Italy’s gastronomic capital that has truly placed it in the spotlight in recent years. Food is a serious matter here: over 30 official recipes – including favorites like tortellini, lasagna, and tagliatelle – are even registered with the Chamber of Commerce. The vibrant food scene, with its bustling markets, historic bars, and charming restaurants serving traditional fare, leaves the biggest impression.

Several large, cured hams hang in a shop window, each labeled and tied with ribbons. Bright lights highlight their golden-brown color. The top of a shop sign with the letters SIMO is partially visible. A wooden board with assorted cured meats, three small bowls of dipping sauces, a basket of bread cubes, a glass of red wine, and a menu on a decorated table.

Salumeria Simoni – for a food tour

Located in the heart of the old town, Salumeria Simoni serves a wide selection of delicious and freshly cut meat and cheese, in a fun and buzzing atmosphere. As well as being a perfect place to try mortadella – Bologna’s most famous cured meat –you can also enjoy other tasty salumi such as prosciutto, bresaola, porchetta, and culatello di zibello

The taglieri (platters) vary greatly in size, from small plates of one type of meat and cheese, to jumbo platters made up of several salumi, a variety of cheese, crescentine, jams and pickles.

Book a mortadella tour with Davide Simoni of the Salumeria Simoni deli and you’ll be rewarded with an hour of culture and history focused on Bologna’s famous sausage!

A wooden table set for a meal with plates, cutlery, glasses of red wine, bottled drinks, flatbreads in a green basket, fried pastries in a basket, and a platter of cold cuts and cheese. Four people are partly visible. A wooden table set for a meal with plates of bread stuffed with cured meat, cheeses, olives, bottled water, and a persons hand reaching for food. The setting appears warm and inviting.

Osteria Dal Nonno – for a farmyard lunch

Located in the hills of Bologna, Osteria Dal Nonno is the perfect spot for a Sunday lunch on a sunny day.

There’s no menu, the waitress just tells you what they have. There’s no wine list, just wine offered jug. The food is traditional Bolognese with dishes like lasagne and cannelloni filled with béchamel and prosciutto cotto but really, you only need to order one thing— L’antipasto di Bologna: crescentine, tigelle, with salumi, cheeses, and vegetables soaked in oil and vinegar. It’s hard to mess up fried dough but the crescentine are amazing here. Crispy and soft at the same time. The perfect vessel to melt prosciutto crudo and the “Bolognese butter”—essentially mashed up lard mixed with spices like rosemary and sage. You can’t miss it while visiting Bologna. 

A cozy outdoor dining area with wooden tables covered in red and white checkered tablecloths, wooden chairs, hanging wicker lamps, string lights, and potted plants under a clear tent. A bowl filled with thin, crispy fried zucchini sticks placed on a white plate, with a brown paper liner underneath the zucchini. The background shows part of a white table and blurred surroundings.

Mulino Bruciato – for the best cotoletta alla Bolognese

For many, “traditional” means large portions. That’s the philosophy of Mulino Bruciato. Here you can feel at home, that of grandparents who take care of filling your plate and make sure you eat it all.

We challenge you to finish the delicious Cotoletta alla Bolognese, perhaps after a nice plate of tagliatelle with meat sauce.

Senza Nome – for a lovely aperitivo

Beer, wine or cocktails accompanied by a delicious buffet; this is Senza Nome. And if this is not enough, Senza Nome is also a place of cultural and social promotion that often hosts events such as exhibitions and small acoustic concerts.

Moreover, what really makes it a special and valuable local, is that managers are hearing impaired. These guys are dedicated to the integration and spread of sign language with great passion. In fact, you can easily order at the counter using the cards or following the instructions provided for the use of sign language.

Vagh in Ufézzi – for one of the best trattorias in Bologna

One of the most welcoming, affordable meals you’d be lucky to have in one of Bologna’s few truly satisfying trattorias left. Run by a husband/wife hospitality duo, they intend to procure a short, yet delightful menu based on their daily whims in a convivial atmosphere. Main plates involve pillowy fried dough pockets and local charcuterie and fresh cheese to stuff them with. If you’re lucky, you may also find mortadella-stuffed tortelloni, tossed in butter and sprinkled with either salted ricotta or truffle shavings, as well as stewed snail over potatoes or snail ragu’ tagliatelle for the most adventurous.

A square white bowl filled with tagliatelle pasta topped with mushrooms and freshly grated cheese, placed on a light brown surface with a speckled gray countertop in the background. A sketch of a restaurant table set for two is drawn on brown paper beside sliced meats and a wooden box of bread. Two pencils rest near the sketch, which is signed and dated 23/01/2023.

Allegra – for quality time with friends

Allegra is a lovely bakery in Bologna’s city center that offers coffee and pastries in the morning and wine in the evening, creating a lively atmosphere in the city’s streets from dawn till dusk.

It's a delightful spot enjoyable in every aspect: breakfast with viennoiseries and specialty coffee; lunch with sourdough bread served with generous dollops of whipped butter; and dinner at the adjacent restaurant 'Calmo,' which offers contemporary cuisine in a fine dining setting, reinterpreting traditional dishes, as well as accompanied by a wide and undoubtedly interesting wine selection.

Scampo – for the perfect fresh fish

Scampo is a modern fish shop in the center of Bologna with a dual concept: you can either buy fish at the counter or eat it on-site. Hence, you can choose the fish you want directly from the counter and also select your preferred cooking method—whether steamed, pan-fried, grilled, or fried (of course, raw options are also available)—all under the careful guidance of the staff.

The wine list also features a special focus on wines from the Emilia Romagna region, such as the organic Pignoletto from Agrobiologica Oro di Diamanti winery.

A table set for a meal with bowls of creamy soup topped with croutons and octopus, plates of bread and falafel with sauce, a bottle of white wine, filled glasses, and a card with Italian text. A person in a gray apron and checkered slip-on shoes stands on pavement, holding a tray with a pastry. Several assorted pastries rest on a rack placed over a black stool.
A wooden tray holds a latte with leaf latte art, an espresso in a rustic cup, and two glasses of water on a brown table; blurred chairs and background suggest a cozy café setting. Three empty dishes, a bottle of olive oil, and a napkin rest on a tiled white table against a white tiled wall, suggesting a meal has just finished.

The market