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GARIELA'S INSIGHTS

Rome Neighborhood Guide

By Gabriela R. Proietti

June 21, 2024

There is nothing like taking a Roman holiday. The sights, tastes, and sounds of the Eternal City make it uniquely and truly one of the most iconic, historical, and rich cities in the world. If you are a first-time visitor or long-time repeater, there is no denying that the city’s historic center, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is an ancient marvel. From the Trevi Fountain to the Pantheon and the Spanish Steps, no trip is complete without paying a visit to these masterpiece wonders.

White cursive Bar sign above a yellow brick building with a weathered awning that partially reads S. Calisto. The building shows signs of age and sun exposure.

But with beauty and world-class reputation comes lots of crowds packing the main areas of the city’s center. When the crowds are overpowering and you’re looking for a different site to see, discover some of Rome’s best neighborhoods to get a taste of authentic, Roman living. 

A sandwich filled with shredded meat sits on a napkin beside a bottle of Peroni beer. Both are placed on a glass counter, with a clear plastic sheet partially covering the sandwich. A small white truck parked on a street corner is filled with vibrant potted flowers and plants. An open green umbrella provides shade, and tall buildings line the background.

Testaccio

The Testaccio neighborhood of Rome comes with its unique history and character. Situated on the banks of the Tiber River, Testaccio has a rich heritage dating back to ancient times. The name "Testaccio" comes from Monte Testaccio, a hill within the neighborhood that is made entirely of ancient Roman amphorae fragments. These large ceramic containers were used to transport goods such as olive oil and wine throughout the Roman Empire. 

Testaccio has played a vital role in the development of the Eternal City’s culinary and cultural identity. Historically a working-class neighborhood, Testaccio was home to slaughterhouses, markets, and warehouses, and has long been associated with the city's food industry. Today, it remains a culinary destination known for its authentic Roman cuisine, including traditional dishes like pajata (veal intestines), coda alla vaccinara (oxtail stew), and trippa alla romana (Roman-style tripe), offering some of the best local trattorias in town. 

A plate with various round, golden-brown and yellow fried snacks, placed on brown paper atop a white plate. An empty white plate is visible in the background. An orange, weathered building with green shutters stands under a clear blue sky. The sunlight casts sharp shadows on the facade, highlighting architectural details and a small balcony with potted plants.
Four scooters, including a bright red one in the center, are parked in front of a large, ornate dark green double door set in an orange brick building with a decorative arch and the number 11 above the entrance. A narrow cobblestone alley lined with tall, weathered buildings in warm tones, covered with green vines. A red bicycle is parked near a door, and sunlight brightens the scene.

Trastevere

Get lost in one of Rome’s most charming neighborhoods, known for its narrow cobblestone streets, medieval buildings, and lively atmosphere. Situated on the west bank of the Tiber River, Trastevere has a distinct character that sets it apart, famous for its vibrant nightlife, colorful streets, working-class charm, and gentrification with numerous bars, 4th-century churches, restaurants, and boutiques lining its streets. 

Trastevere is also home to several beautiful churches, such as the Basilica of Santa Maria in Trastevere, which dates back to the 4th century and features stunning mosaics. It's a favorite among both locals and visitors looking to experience authentic Roman culture and cuisine. Start early in the morning getting lost in the rhymes of daily life and don’t miss out on Piazza San Calisto and Piazza Santa Maria di Trastevere. 

A vine with red flowers climbs a metal fence in front of a pink stucco building with brown shutters, under a clear blue sky. Some greenery and another tiled-roof building are visible in the background. Old, weathered buildings with terracotta walls and wooden shutters stand under a clear blue sky. Several TV antennas and satellite dishes are mounted on the rooftops. Shadows fall across the walls.

Garbatella 

One of my favorite neighborhoods to get lost in, Garbatella feels like a world away from Rome. Renowned for its distinctive urban planning, colorful architecture, and Roman pride, this neighborhood was developed in the early 20th century to provide affordable housing for working-class families in a socialist manner. Garbatella’s architecture is uniquely its own, characterized by low-rise palazzi (buildings), decorative balconies, communal green spaces, and community courtyards. 

Today, Garbatella has remained home to workers, artisans, immigrants, and intellectuals alike, creating a diverse atmosphere reflected in the neighborhood's vibrant cultural scene, with theaters, cinemas, cafes, and community centers serving as hubs for artistic and social activities. Many young locals born and raised in Garbatella have opened up charming cafes, bars, and eateries worth checking out in Piazza Biffi and Via Giustino de Jacobis. 

A yellow, historic European building with arched windows, wooden shutters, balconies with plants, and ornate architectural details, set against a clear blue sky. Two closed metal shop shutters, both covered in graffiti, are shown in bright sunlight. The shop on the left has a dark blue sign, while the one on the right has a black sign with yellow letters partially visible.

Esquilino 

Bordering Rome’s main train station Roma Termini, Esquilino is located in the heart of the city that until recent years, was skipped over by visitors for its rundown, gritty atmosphere. Today, Esquilino has developed into a neighborhood known for its multicultural and diverse population, and the area is sprinkled with important landmarks such as Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore, one of the four major basilicas in Rome, and Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II, one of the city’s largest squares. Esquilino is characterized by its bustling markets, vibrant street life, and a wide range of ethnic restaurants, shops, and cultural institutions. It is considered one of the most dynamic and cosmopolitan areas of Rome, reflecting the city's long history of immigration and cultural exchange.

A grand, white three-story villa stands beside manicured hedge gardens under a bright blue sky with puffy clouds. Several people observe the scene from behind an iron fence in the foreground. Sunlight illuminates a garden with potted plants and green foliage in the foreground, a stone wall with a classical statue in a niche in the background, and shadows creating a warm, peaceful atmosphere.

Monteverde 

Monteverde, which translates to green mountain, is a charming residential neighborhood located above Trastevere. Originally a rural area dotted with vineyards and country villas, today Monteverde is characterized by its tree-lined streets, elegant Liberty-style villas, and spacious parks and gardens, which contribute to its relaxed and tranquil atmosphere when looking for an escape from the overcrowded city center. One of the most prominent landmarks in the neighborhood is Villa Doria Pamphili, one of the largest public parks in Rome, which offers open walking trails, landscaped gardens, and panoramic views of the city. 

After a walk through Villa Doria Pamphili, pass over to the neighborhood's hidden fountain called Fontana dell’Acqua Paola and finish the day wandering through Gianicolo Hill, one of Rome’s most famous seven hills offering panoramic views of the city. 

Sunlight illuminates a garden with potted plants and green foliage in the foreground, a stone wall with a classical statue in a niche in the background, and shadows creating a warm, peaceful atmosphere.

Coppedè 

Bordering Rome’s affluent northern neighborhoods Parioli and Trieste, Coppedè is an under-the-radar spot renowned for its eclectic and whimsical architecture. Located in the Trieste district, Coppedè is characterized by its Art Nouveau and Art Deco-style buildings, which feature elaborate facades adorned with intricate sculptures, mosaics, and decorative motifs. One of the most iconic landmarks in Coppedè is the Quartiere delle Ambasciate (Quarter of the Embassies), a cluster of embassy buildings surrounding Piazza Mincio. Each building is uniquely designed, with no two facades alike. Despite its architectural significance, Coppedè remains relatively off the beaten path for tourists, making it a hidden gem for those who venture off the typical tourist trail. 

A wine glass rests on a white napkin, with a green and brown sticker labeled Grolift! EUR and some small printed text in Italian visible through the glass base. A close-up of a white stone building facade featuring multiple rows of evenly spaced arched windows. Above the arches, Italian text is engraved into the stone.

EUR 

EUR, which stands for Esposizione Universale di Roma, is a district in Rome with a rather rocky past. Originally planned as the site for the 1942 World's Fair commissioned by Benito Mussolini, which was canceled due to World War II, after the war, the area was developed as a modern business district by the Italian government. Today, EUR is known for its rationalist architecture, wide boulevards, and large public spaces with notable landmarks including the Palazzo della Civiltà Italiana (also known as the Square Colosseum), the Museo della Civiltà Romana, and the Palazzo dei Congressi.

The market