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NONNA WISDOM EPISODE 5

A Journey Through Sicily of Tradition and Flavors

By Gianina Rose

March 31, 2025

An elderly woman with gray hair raises a glass in a toast with others around a table. Text on the image reads Nonna Wisdom: Episode 5. Food is visible on the table.

Crossing the Strait of Messina always has a magical quality. The wind in your hair, the scent of the sea breeze, and the sight of Sicily slowly approaching make this moment unique. In this new episode of Nonna Wisdom, our journey begins just like that: from Reggio Calabria, we take the ferry and arrive in Messina, our eyes full of wonder and our hearts already set on our next destination, Francofonte, where Nonna Pina is waiting for us.

A woman walks past an outdoor fish market stall under a red awning labeled F.LLI VITTORIO. Fresh seafood is displayed on ice, and two workers stand behind the counters. Cars are parked in the background. A woman wearing sunglasses, a brown sweater, and denim overalls stands by a blue railing near water, with green hills and buildings visible in the background under a partly cloudy sky.

A Day in Catania: Festival, Market, and Traditional Sweets

Before heading to Nonna Pina's house, we made a stop in Catania. The atmosphere is electric: it’s the time of the celebrations for Saint Agatha, the city’s patron saint. The streets are alive with solemn processions, faithful in prayer, and the smells of food mixing in the air. Talking about Saint Agatha means speaking of devotion and history: a young martyr who left an indelible mark on the hearts of the people of Catania.

After admiring the procession, we dive into the folklore of the fish market. The calls of the vendors, the bright colors of the stalls, and the abundance of fresh products create an incredible sensory experience. A kind man prepares me a freshly squeezed Sicilian orange juice by hand, which I drink while strolling through the streets, savoring every sip. Here, amid a dialect joke and a warm handshake, I taste an almond granita paired with the classic brioche. And, of course, I can’t resist a crispy Cannolo filled with ricotta. Tomorrow, we’ll be cooking with Nonna Pina, but today we celebrate Sicily through its flavors.

A butcher in a white coat and dark cap is cutting meat at an outdoor market stall. A person in a red beanie and denim jacket stands nearby. The scene is set on a weathered city street. A bicycle loaded with various baskets, bags, and hats hangs from poles, along with flags and bunches of artificial vegetables. The display is colorful and dense, making the bike almost unrecognizable.

The Warm Welcome of Nonna Pina and Her Lively Home

We leave Catania and head towards Francofonte, passing through pristine rural landscapes, lush nature, and endless orchards. The roads, typical of Southern Italy, retain an authentic charm, almost suspended in time. Upon our arrival, we are greeted by Nonna Pina and her daughter Lucia, who open the doors of their home with the sincere smile of those who love to share. They immediately offer me an apron, a simple but meaningful gesture. Here, there are no formalities or distance: hospitality is a sincere embrace, an invitation to feel part of their home and their story. Any sense of awkwardness disappears in an instant, replaced by the joy of sharing authentic moments, as if I were a granddaughter returning home after a long journey. Their home is a little corner of paradise: a colorful kitchen, a large window overlooking the valley, and the soothing sound of a stream flowing near an old mill.

Two women wearing aprons shape bread dough on a wooden table covered with patterned cloth, surrounded by bowls of tomatoes, figs, and other food in a cozy kitchen. A person kneads dough in a wooden tray, with their hand pressing into the mixture. Another person, partially visible, stands nearby wearing a colorful apron. Flour is scattered around the tray.

The Rarricati family built this little world with their own hands, especially Lucia, Pina’s daughter, who carries on the passion passed down from her father, the craftsmanship of building her own paradise. We go down into the courtyard where they show us their vegetable garden: for now, only a purple broccoli is growing, but you can feel the love and dedication they give to their land. There is also a large table for summer dinners and orange and almond trees, symbols of the truest Sicily.

Nonna Pina and Lucia waste no time: they tie my apron and we begin cooking right away. Today’s menu is full of traditional dishes:

  • Pane Conzato: From preparing the dough to baking it in the wood-fired oven they built themselves with tiles and plaster. The bread is made in an old madia (a traditional wooden dough box used for kneading and storing dough), where it’s kneaded, left to rise, and then shaped into rolls of various forms. This is a Sicilian tradition that the Rarricati family has carried on for generations. Lucia, Pina, and I knead together: they shape the bread with incredible skill, while I try to imitate them. Among the typical shapes are spicchi i mennula (almond wedge-shaped), and decorative flowers brought to life by Nonna Pina’s skilled hands. Once ready, the rolls are baked in the wood-fired oven, heated exclusively with olive, orange, and lemon wood to avoid altering the taste of the dishes.

  • Carciofi con la Mollica: A simple but incredibly flavorful dish typical of the Sicilian countryside.

  • Salsiccia alla Brace: Slow-cooked to release all its delicious aromas.

  • Olive Conzate: Seasoned with local herbs, perfect for accompanying the meal.

Loaves of bread rising on the stone floor of a rustic oven, with a fire burning in the foreground and rough stone walls in the background. Balls of raw bread dough in various shapes rest on a cloth-covered surface, ready for baking. The dough appears soft and lightly floured.

In addition to the bread, we also prepare Impanata siciliana, a rustic dish filled with wild herbs, mozzarella, and sausage, seasoned with oil, salt, and tomato. The dough is rolled out, half filled with the filling, and then folded into a half-moon shape, sealing the edges with a typical braid. Nonna Pina smiles as she tells me an anecdote related to this tradition: if you can close an impanata well, it means you're ready to get married! All the flavors are enhanced by the freshness of the ingredients and the extraordinary skill of Lucia and Pina.

While cooking, Nonna Pina shares stories from her youth, when she lived in the countryside and had to be creative to feed her children. She tells me how she made simple foods special: adding a bit of sugar on a slice of orange was enough to turn it into an unforgettable sweet treat.

Two black oxen with horns and collars walk past a wooden fence in a grassy field under a blue sky with clouds. A group of people raise glasses in a toast around a table set with food, while an elderly woman in a red sweater and apron smiles, sitting at the head of the table.

The grandchildren and other family members join us, and we all sit together at a long table. Nonna Pina takes the lead, making toasts and laughing heartily, sharing moments of joy. She is a grandmother full of life, love, and passion for family and traditions. With every dish, there are compliments on the goodness of the food. Food is even better when shared, and the simplicity of this experience is what makes it special.

If you want to experience this extraordinary day too, you can book a cooking experience with Nonna Pina and Lucia on Airbnb (link here: https://www.airbnb.it/experiences/4461707?guests=1&adults=1&s=67&unique_share_id=7353ad34-cfa4-4800-8668-a0ea8b97e97c). I guarantee you’ll return home with a full heart and a happy palate!

Until the next adventure with Nonna Wisdom!

A man sits on the ground in front of a large stone fountain, while a woman wearing sunglasses sits on the fountain ledge above him. Another person walks past them.

The market