Hiking the Cinque Terre

As we boarded the train in Florence, the warning signs were palpable. We’d had sprinted from our hotel to the station to avoid the rain from completely drenching our increasingly unsuitable linen summer dresses.  But none of us had packed raincoats for our late August beach escape to Liguria’s Cinque Terre. We were unsure how the next days would pan out and how we were to spend our time on a coastal stretch seemingly made for lounging on pebbled shores and under striped umbrellas. Nonetheless, we threw caution to the windy rain and prayed  that in our 2 hour journey from the city, the skies would miraculously clear.

Our prayers weren’t answered. We arrived in Riomaggiore just as the rain ceased but the heavy clouds still blocked any hint of sun or blue sky. We trudged up the iconic town’s main street, which lies on a steep hill and is lined by pastel-coloured bars and restaurants usually packed with beachgoing crowds. Today, just a few of the grittier tourists were stoically lingering on the cobbles that were glistening from the earlier showers. We checked in, chucked off our drenched clothes, and determined not to dampen our moods, began to reassess our plans.

Nestled along the rugged Ligurian coastline, the Cinque Terre is defined by dramatic sceneries of cliffside villages, craggy landscapes, and idyllic beaches. Its name, meaning "Five Lands," consists of five picture perfect, colourful towns all dotted along the shore and teetering over rocky precipices. They are Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore. Despite their outward similarities, each has its own character. Most travellers to the region will train hop between them, each is within a 2-5 minute journey from the next. Yet our foiled beach trip revealed to us that centuries-old footpaths also connect the five hubs. Suddenly, our plans for lounging on the Cinque Terre’s shores turned into hiking its hinterlands.  

After a hearty lunch of farinata (an unleavened savoury crepe made from chickpea flour) and trofie with pesto al Genovese (both native to Liguria’s lands), we were fuelled for our first hike. Amidst cactus-lined trails, we took the winding path from Riomaggiore to its neighbouring town, Manarola. We passed along precarious pathways that overlooked the roaring waves below, we meandered through vibrant meadows which might have been the only organisms in the area to welcome the rain, and we roamed past terraced landscapes which local farmers have cultivated to produce wine, olives, and indigenous crops. Given the unyielding and steep terrain, its not an easy wilderness to tame. We were engrossed in the natural scenery that coloured our walk, and it came as little surprise when we later found out that the Cinque Terre are a UNESCO World Heritage site.

We arrived in Manarola at aperitivo time, and crowds had reappeared now that the rain had subsided. Some locals had grabbed a bottle of wine and were sitting on a pontoon watching the crashing tide, still riled up from the earlier bad weather. Since we’d already had our fill of soggy clothes for the day, we made our way to a nearby piazza for drinks. Live music began to play, and the outdoor tables filled up with thirsty punters. With a carafe of red wine at our disposal, we mapped out the next day’s adventure. We’d take the train to Manarola and from there, we would hike to Corniglia, the next village along. We decided to pack focaccia sandwiches so we could lunch enroute and we would make a ritual of having drinks and dinner at our evening destination.

We did just that, and arrived at Corniglia as the sun was setting. Since the clouds were still smothering the horizon, we watched them change colour from deep grey to milky orange and brilliant pink. The sea below had still not calmed but we had. There was joy in exploring a coastal destination for more than we had bargained for, and we learned that the Cinque Terre were a veritable destination for hiking fanatics. 

The days continued this way and we found boundless beauty nestled among the cliffs of Liguria. Had the sun been shining, we would never have uncovered the intricacies of this complex region. On our final day we were rewarded with the clearest skies and the calmest water. It was finally time to sprawl by the sea. As we packed our towels and sun cream, it became apparent that we weren’t quite ready to hang up our hiking shoes. So, rather than taking the train all the way to Monterosso al Mare, we got off a stop earlier at Vernazza. From there we happily walked to the last of the five towns. Upon arriving at the beach, our plunge into the warm shallow waters felt all the better for it.