Stop Planning Florence. Start Mixing It.

Florence is a city everyone thinks they know.
You picture it, you recognize it, you instantly associate it with something: art, history, beauty. Then you spend a few days there and realize that’s not enough.

It’s not enough to see the monuments, not enough to eat well, not enough to follow a classic itinerary. Florence is a city made of layers. The first is the one you notice right away, built on beauty and images. Then there’s another, quieter one that reveals itself if you stay a little longer. And finally, there’s a more hidden layer, made of people, workshops, and stories, which is what I was really interested in finding. That’s why I chose to experience it this way: not as a checklist of things to see, but as a series of days, each with its own rhythm and perspective.

During my stay, I stayed at Casa Il Fico, an apartment in the Sant’Ambrogio area, perfect for experiencing Florence away from the chaos of the center while still being just a ten-minute walk from everything. The name comes from the fig tree growing in the small inner courtyard, next to a mandarin tree. It’s a cozy, carefully designed space, one of those places where you don’t feel like a guest, but as if it were your home, just in another city. I’m sharing the itineraries I followed so you can use them as inspiration and build your own.

The anthropological tour

In Florence, it’s incredibly easy to fall into the usual pattern: monuments, lines, photos, restaurants you’ve already seen online. It’s all beautiful, but at some point you realize you’re looking at the city without really stepping into it. That’s where the idea of this “anthropological tour” comes from.

It’s a way of observing the city through the people who keep it alive. Florence, now more than ever, is a city exposed to tourism, and the risk is that it becomes increasingly uniform. That’s why I decided to start with historic Florentine businesses, places that have existed for generations and continue to carry on craftsmanship, traditions, and identity.

They’re not just shops, but spaces where you can truly feel history, art, and culture. Places shaped by generations, where the past coexists with the present and projects itself into the future. In every story I encountered, I felt that continuity: something real, made of people and lived experience. More than just an idea, this route is made to be walked. It follows a natural flow through the city, making it easy to move from one area to the next without even thinking about it. The day can start with two types of breakfast, both equally valid but with completely different moods.

On one side, there’s Vivoli, where you can easily give in to what has become mainstream in recent years. It’s one of those places you see everywhere, and precisely for that reason, you feel like trying it. There’s nothing wrong with that. If it sparks curiosity, it makes sense to go. Here you can have an espresso “drowned” in a scoop of cream gelato, their classic affogato. It’s simple but satisfying, perfect to start the day with a little extra energy.

On the other side, there’s Cibreo Caffè, for a completely different kind of breakfast, almost regal. Here you sit down and take your time, choosing something more structured. I had a butter roll with cooked ham and a proper espresso, but there’s also a refined pastry selection. It’s the kind of place where breakfast becomes a moment to enjoy slowly, not just a quick stop.

From here, the route really begins. The first stop is Zecchi Belle Arti, on Via dello Studio, just a few meters from the Duomo. This place has existed since the second half of the 19th century, and in 1920 Adolfo Zecchi transformed it into a reference point for artists and artisans. Today, his sons Sandro and Massimo carry it forward.

What’s incredible here is that pigments are still created starting from stones and minerals. It’s not just a shop, it’s a workshop, a place where you truly understand where a color comes from, where a painting begins. It’s frequented by artists, students, and decorators from all over the world.

Stepping back outside, you cross the heart of the city and find yourself in front of the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore. And this is where something interesting happens: what you just saw inside a workshop takes shape outside. There are painters working in front of Brunelleschi’s dome, people reinterpreting the city in real time. Florence stops being something you simply observe and becomes something that’s happening.

Continuing on, you reach Libreria Giorni, on Via dei Martelli. You step into a vaulted basement and the atmosphere completely changes. You’re welcomed by the smell of printed paper, surrounded by used books, rare editions, and valuable volumes. The owner, Francesco, is the third generation running the bookstore. He told me the story of the shop and even showed me a very rare edition of a gynecology book printed in Venice, one of the first of its kind. It’s one of those places that endure, adapting to time without losing their identity.

Moving toward Via Ricasoli, you enter Profumeria Invicta. The feeling here is completely different, it’s like stepping into the 1960s. Combs, hair accessories, perfumes, body care items, everything arranged with incredible attention. The owner welcomes you, tells stories, lets you try fragrances. It’s not just a shop, it’s an atmosphere, an experience. I made my way back toward Sant’Ambrogio, where everything had started, and stopped for lunch at Cibreino.

The final stop of this route is also one of the most meaningful: Cesteria Martini. It’s a small, dense workshop, filled with chairs, materials, and tools, where every corner tells a story. Stefano and his son Jacopo work here, carrying on a tradition that dates back to 1925 and has now reached its fourth generation.Jacopo has been there since he was sixteen, next to his father. It’s not something he picked up later, it’s something he grew up in. You can feel it in every gesture, every explanation, the way they talk about their work. They told me about the different weaving techniques, the differences between Vienna straw and the materials used for hats and bags, about tools and craftsmanship. The tools are traditional: hammer, screwdriver, hands. And the rhythm of the work is completely different from what happens outside.
At one point, they told me that Stefano’s father was born right above the shop. In that same space, upstairs, there used to be a room. It’s one of those details that makes you realize this isn’t just a business, but a family story that continues. And then there was a gesture I didn’t expect: after I chose a few items, they gave them to me as a gift. Simple, but meaningful. It’s one of those places that truly deserve to be known, because they tell a side of Florence that still exists, made of hands, time, and relationships.

Santo Spirito: getting lost and finding something more

There's another way to experience Florence completely different from the structured day before. No itinerary, no plan. It was one of those spring days when the city shifts its rhythm, and the only thing on my mind was the Boboli Gardens. From there, everything else unfolded.

Boboli is one of those places you don't visit with a purpose, but simply to be. You walk, stop, sit on the grass, observe. In spring it's even more beautiful, soft light, blooming wisteria and roses, a stillness that makes you slow down without realising it. I stayed for a few hours, sunbathing, reading, wandering, before leaving with no real plan. Walking through Santo Spirito, I thought the day would continue straightforwardly. But sometimes, when you stop looking for something, something finds you. That's when I noticed Rodolfo's workshop, walls completely covered in paintings, colour everywhere, not a single empty space. And him, sitting outside with his hat and a cigarette, as if he were part of the scenery.

I walked up and asked if I could come in. The first thing he said stayed with me: "Few people have the courage to cross a threshold in life. Many stay outside, hey look, but never really step in. Not just in shops, but in situations, relationships, the things they want to do."

A conversation followed that lasted two hours. He spoke about his life, how he started painting at sixty, after failing art in school and about his muse, his wife Mirella. She appears in almost all his works, often in scenes of love, while men are painted with a touch of irony, as if to suggest that in front of a woman, they always lose a little control. Their story began on a dance floor: she was with another man, he cut in, and from that night on they were inseparable.

Rodolfo has a remarkably open and free vision of love and life, one of those rare people who make you think the world would be far more interesting with more souls like his. At the entrance, he showed me small colourful houses he builds for children, the purest souls, he says, ones he wants to draw closer to that world. I left with the feeling of having found something I wasn't even looking for. And maybe that's exactly the point of a day like this, leaving space for the unexpected.

Where to eat in Santo Spirito
A very enjoyable stop was Trattoria La Casalinga. A simple place, no unnecessary frills, with a direct, traditional menu that just feels right. I’d recommend the “Crostoni with kale and beans”, “Penne al ragù”, and of course, the “Bistecca alla fiorentina”.

Three sunset ideas in Florence

The first is a classic: Ponte Vecchio.
Here the sunset feels more intimate. Light reflects on the Arno, colors turn warmer, and there’s often a street musician in the background. It’s a place to simply stop and observe.
The second is Piazzale Michelangelo.
More open, more scenic, more shared. Yes, it’s crowded, but the view makes up for it. The whole city in front of you, the sun setting behind the rooftops, people sitting on the steps, music in the background. It feels like a small collective ritual.
The third is the terrace of La Rinascente Firenze, in Piazza della Repubblica. A more unexpected option, but one that gives you one of the closest views of Brunelleschi’s Dome. From here, you can admire it almost face to face, while also overlooking the square with its iconic carousel below.

What to do in Florence on a rainy day

When it rains, Florence completely changes rhythm. Rather than seeing it as a limitation, I quickly realised rainy days are the perfect excuse to step into the city's most iconic indoor spaces, starting with the Uffizi Gallery. It needs no introduction, but it's worth experiencing slowly. With the rain outside, everything feels different: less rushed, more intimate. You stop longer, observe more, and the works somehow hit differently.

Afterwards, I made my way back to Sant'Ambrogio for something simple but perfect — schiacciata from a small stand called Ci Piace, run by a local using quality ingredients. Prosciutto crudo, artichokes, pecorino. Exactly what you'd hope for: straightforward, satisfying, well made.

Schiacciata is everywhere in Florence! Iconic, a little touristy by now, but it holds up. The truth is you eat well almost anywhere in the city. The real difference is in the price. At Sant'Ambrogio market I paid 6 euros for a generous portion, which is more than fair compared to other areas.

As the rain got heavier, I ducked into Giunti Odeon. A bookstore built inside a former cinema, spread across multiple levels. Downstairs, books and a screen; upstairs, spaces that feel almost theatrical, with seating where people read, study, or simply sit. One of those rare places where slowing down feels completely natural, and sheltering from the rain still keeps you right in the heart of the city.

An extra experience: painting Florence

Among everything I did, one stands out, Paint and Wine Florence, a beautiful space just steps from Ponte Vecchio. Inside you find easels, canvases, colours and an atmosphere that feels like a contemporary take on a classic art workshop. The concept is simple: paint while sipping a glass of wine, freely or with a guided lesson. Either way, something shifts. You're no longer just looking at Florence, you're reinterpreting it. And you leave with something personal, something made by you, far beyond the usual souvenir.
Florence isn't a city you can summarise. You can plan everything, but what stays with you are always the things you didn't expect — a chance meeting, a hidden workshop, a small detour that changes the whole day. It's a city of layers: the one you see immediately, the one you discover by staying longer, and the one that only reveals itself when you decide to step inside.

Mix iconic places with simpler ones. Follow a loose itinerary, but leave room to get lost. Stop when something catches your eye, even if it wasn't part of the plan. And remember what Rodolfo told me: don't stay on the threshold, step inside and live it.