Aeolian Islands

It took one bus, one plane, four taxis, two trains, and one ferry to get there. But the moment we touched down, the stiffness of the 18 hour journey melted away. Relief, joy, and anticipation seeped into us instead. We had waited so long for this, and now finally, the Aeolian Islands were ours to fall in love with.

CHAPTER 1: FILICUDI
Our first stop on our whistlestop tour was Filicudi. The typical vision of the Aeolian islands is ceramic-tiled balconies strewn with white linen garments that hang on laundry lines fluttering in the breeze, and panoramic vistas of the endless Mediterranean waters. We checked into this precise fairytale image just as the sky was turning pink from the setting sun. Our little apartment was high in the hills of Pecorini, and our first hours there were spent engrossed in the view as if it were a movie. Instead of popcorn,we sipped Aeolian wine. 

Filicudi has a certain atmosphere about it. It’s a mystical paradise whose moods and temperaments can shift dramatically. The island is small but mighty; residents and visitors alike are at its mercy. A moment of sunny calm can suddenly be usurped by strong gusts of wind or bouts of rain. But we were in luck. We spent our days basking on volcanic rocks and diving into crystalline waters. Being September, it was quiet, and we were surrounded by locals or no one at all. 

For sunset, there was nowhere better to watch the changing sky, than our balcony. We would hike up the hill with a chilled bottle of prosecco in one hand, and a packet of crisps in the other. We sipped our drinks and took turns washing the salt off our bodies in the outdoor shower that faced Filicudi’s clifftops and deep seas. 

On our final night, the moment the last sliver of the sun’s orange glow disappeared we made our way back into Pecorini. A final drink in a plastic cup at the town’s little Spartan bar, Saloon (no cocktails just beer and wine) before dinner on the terrace of La Sirena.  The night was as warm as the full throes of August, but we had been warned that a storm was brewing. 

In Greek mythology, it was said that Aeolus, god of the winds, lived among these islands and guarded the winds which were stored away in jars. He would only release them if commanded by the gods. When visiting the Aeolians, you must relinquish control. It is not uncommon for days on end to pass without the possibility of leaving. If Aeolus opens the jars, he has full power over your comings and goings.

The next day we were due to leave for Salina, but strong winds meant that ferries may not run. To avoid the wrath of Aeolus, the locals advised us to take the first boat of the day at 6am when the weather was still peaceful enough. 

The next morning, at the crack of dawn, we gathered our belongings and rushed to the port. We left Filicudi at 6am. Later that day, we discovered that all other ferries had been cancelled.

CHAPTER 2: SALINA
Salina’s tropical soul defines its landscape. We arrived just as a passing thunderstorm had nourished the island and as the rain cleared, the lush, looming mountains looked greener than ever. We then nourished ourselves with an arancino and headed to Salina’s most famous beach, Spiaggia dello Scario. It is characterised by its supersized pebbles so large and jutting that the only comfortable way to lie on the bay is with a blow up mattress, rentable for €5 a pop. So, we spent the next few hours lounging there, and not once would the novelty of the bay with its colossal rocks, wear off. 

Salina has a few small-scale yet impressive vineyards and later that evening we purchased some bottles from Hauner and Tenuta di Castellaro, two of the most prestigious. Armed with further sustenance (a local cheese, an Aeolian salami, salty capers which are one of Salina’s most famous exports, and packets of Fonzies crisps), we tasted the island’s produce from the comfort of our terrace. It looked out on swaying palm trees, looming mountains, and rows of olive trees.

The next day, we took the bus from our town in the north, Malfa (the best place to stay in Salina) to Rinella in the south. With the summer heat still in full swing, there was nowhere else to go than the beach. Here, the sand is entirely black due to Salina’s volcanic terrain. The hours went by and eventually, to cool us down in the late afternoon heat, we flopped over to Pa.Pe.Ro, a nearby bar serving Ricotta granita topped with candied capers. Sweet treats in hand, we clambered back on the bus and took the winding roads back to Malfa to enjoy our last dinner on the island.

The biggest regret was not making it to Pollara, a beach made famous by ‘Il Postino,’ one of the best films to come out of Italy. Now, at least, we have a reason to return.

CHAPTER 3: PANAREA
Remember how the islands are in control? Our 2-day adventure of Panarea turned into 4. High winds prevented any ferries from running, and we never made it to our lost stop Stromboli. Yet, it gave us the chance to dig deeper into the Aeolians’ most elegant destination. 

We fell into a comfortable routine. Panarea has two beaches, one sandy, the other rocky. The days were spent flanking the coast and evenings were whiled away at the Hotel Raya, a Sicilian institution with an iconic terrace that faces the sea. In the peak of summer, you will fight for a sunset aperitivo spot at Raya but in September, we could saunter in and be guaranteed a prime table. By the second day, the hostess became our best friend, and she showered us with drinks and bar snacks that left no more space for dinner. The uncertainty of whether we would make it off the island in time for a flight home, was left at the door, and we were never happier to be stranded. 

Sunday morning came and the ferries were running once more. Reluctantly, we embarked making our way to Milazzo port on Sicily’s mainland. Our flight back to the UK was later that day and whilst our various duties to reality garnered waves of relief to be getting it home in time, a part of all of us had hoped we would never make it back. This won’t be the last we see of the Aeolian islands, they still have too much to show us.