48 hours in….Rome

Marcus Aurelius, emperor of Rome and Stoic philosopher, once said ‘When you arise in the morning, think of what a precious privilege it is to be alive.’ Its no wonder he spoke so affably about life; he would wake up every day in the greatest city in the world. Rome has always been a much sought after destination. It is considered the centre of historical, artistic and cultural exchange in Europe, having endured as a hub of activity since Marcus Aurelius’ day. The eternal city continues to thrive and whilst much of it has stayed the same for thousands of years, its not easy keeping up with its cosmopolitan innovations.

With much of today’s news circulating from the eternal city, Rome is perhaps more on our minds than ever. But with its great popularity comes great possibility of falling into tourist traps that don’t reap enduring rewards. You will stumble upon many of Rome’s iconic sites just by walking through its storied streets but there are some pointed hidden gems that should define your time there. As you start mapping out your visit, here is my suggested 48 hours in Rome to experience the alluring sights that tourists come to see whilst also eating, drinking and living like a local. 

DAY 1
Morning
Fuel you morning at Forno Conti e Co, a bakery moulding ancient grains into novel artisanal production. Pair your exquisite coffee with a perfectly crispy cornetto, or, if you want a true bite of Rome, opt for the Maritozzo. This is a fluffy bun crammed with whipped cream that tastes deceivingly light and fluffy. 

After your ancient grains, head to ancient Rome. From the Conti e Co, it’s a 15-minute walk to the Colosseum and the Roman Forum which you can stroll through or buy an all-inclusive ticket that grants your access inside the attractions.

Ahead of lunch, walk to the Doria Pamphilj gallery, a splendid centuries’ old noble palazzo with gilded and frescoed interiors as well as a prestigious collection of art by some of Rome and Italy’s most impressive names (Caravaggio, Raphael, Titian, Bernini etc).

Midday
By now, you’ll have worked up quite an appetite and from the gallery, it’s a 4-minute walk to the Piazza S. Ignazio. One more stop before lunch: head into the Church of S. Ignazio to see one of the most striking examples of a trompe l’oeil (an optical illusion in paint) on the church’s ceiling. Once you’ve craned your neck in wonder, head out of the church and cross the piazza, taking a seat at the casual Da Sabatino a S. Ignazio. Their outside tables are fabulous spot people watching and the historic restaurant is where Roman businessmen and women come for their lunch break. Its cheap, cheerful and wonderfully atmospheric.

Afternoon
After lunch head, grab dessert at Il Gelato di S. Crispino, serving some truly unique flavours among the more popular favourites (eg. Iberican ham flavour and beer flavour). From there, spend the afternoon at the Palazzo dei Conservatori to stand next to fragments of Emperor Constantine’s 4th century colossal statue. Just the size of his hand is nearly 1.5 metres tall. 

After this, you’re going to meander over to the Monti neighbourhood for some retail therapy. Monti has an impressive selection of vintage clothes shops. Among them, are Pifebo, Humana Vintage, and Blue Goose but you’ll find many more around the same streets. 

Aperitivo Hour
The piazzas and bars are about to fill up with thirsty Romans looking for their pre-dinner tipple. To get among the action, stay in Monti and walk to La bottega del Caffe. Grab an outdoor seat before they’re gone and enjoy the local atmosphere as the sun goes down. 

Dinner
Stroll from one neighbourhood favourite to another and enjoy dinner at the lively and unpretentious Trattoria Monti. As always, the outdoor tables are the best – there’s nothing like dining al fresco in Rome on cobbled streets in candlelight. Dishes at the trattoria are simple, local and seasonal but executed with expertise.

After Dinner
The night is only just getting started, and you’ll head straight to Blackmarket Hall round the corner, a gallery and bar mixing some mean cocktails. I’d opt for an espresso martini because at the witching hours, you’ll be heading to the Aventine Keyhole (best to take a taxi there). This free attraction is often packed throughout the day but at night, its usually empty and a more magical experience too. The Aventine Keyhole is a doorway with a small hole drilled in the ideal spot to see the Vatican’s St Peter’s Dome perfectly framed by green hedges. In the dead of night, its an utterly romantic vision seeing one of Rome’s most important structures illuminated amid the night sky.

DAY 2
Morning
Have breakfast at the bar like a true local at Pasticceria D’Angelo. They serve an impressive selection of pastries and cakes which you’ll wash down with an unfussy coffee made just right. From there, you’ll head up the Spanish steps (4 minutes away) and towards the Villa Borghese. This is Rome’s most beloved park known as the city’s green lung. Spend the morning getting lost among the cypress trees before heading to the Galleria Borghese within the heart of the gardens. Here, an exquisite collection of art is housed including some of the world’s most important masterpieces in painting and sculpture. A highlight is Bernini’s Apollo and Daphne, a sculpture that seems to defy all logic.

Midday
Lunch is at Ristorante Nino, an institution where the same waiters have been serving the same tables and wearing same white blazers for decades. This is Roman food done right, nothing is overcomplicated or underwhelming. Get the artichokes, a classic, and if you dare, the deep fried lamb brain.

Afternoon
You’ve spent a lot of time observing art from the centuries ago but for something refreshing, head to Gagosian after lunch (you’ll be able to pass the Trevi Fountain enroute), a contemporary art gallery offering strong contrasts between the old and new worlds. Rome’s cosmopolitan air is just as important as its longstanding history. 

The artworks in Gagosian might break the bank a little too much but you’re in a prime area to do some more shopping. Spend the afternoon scouring this neighbourhood and its endless retail opportunities. When you need to rest your weary legs, head to Hotel de Russie for a real liquid treat. This luxury hotel features a marvellous and tranquil garden where you can enjoy a caffeine hit or something stronger.

Aperitivo
Cheers your cocktail in front of antiquity at Salotto 42, a trendy drinking hole which overlooks the Emperor Hadrian’s Temple (who says you can’t take in culture and alcohol at the same time?). Its worth staying till sundown because the temple looks even more magical when lit up at night.

Dinner
Your dinner is a 20-minute walk away but the beauty of Rome is that every street corner has something to behold. En route to the restaurant, you will encounter the Piazza Novona, cross the River Tiber, pass the Castel Sant’Angelo (Rome’s former prison), and the Villa Farnesina, all icons of the city. Finally you’ll reach Enoteca Ferrara in Trastevere, one of the most buzzing neighbourhoods in Rome. The restaurant is a cosy haven lined to the ceiling with wine bottles that need to be retrieved with a special contraption. Beyond the fluffy charcoal bread pillows served at every table, they offer Roman classics with a punchy twist. Its easy to get carried away by their savoury courses but save room for their tiramisu!

After Dinner
Trastevere feels alive at all times of the day, and its beating heart is the Bar S. Calisto. This institution serves your first morning coffee and your last evening nightcap at shockingly cheap prices. Since 1969, its been open 6 nights a week from 6am to 2am. You’ll be sipping your drink among diehard locals who spill onto the streets when all the seats have been taken.

Safe to say, you have filled your days (and nights) to the brim with culture, history, food and drink but you haven’t even scratched Rome’s surface. There’s only one option: you’ll have to come back soon to continue exploring the eternal wonders of the eternal city.